Unable to speak or understand Greek, I was freed from attending meetings with the architect and contractors. I wandered around the village, slept late, sat on the beach, read and otherwise amused myself while the men did all the heavy lifting. Lest I sound lazy, let me add a different perspective...this is practice for life on the island at a proper pace. Attitude is everything.
I noticed a sea change in MG. He had only to breathe the air in Greece, shake hands, hug and clap backs with BF, eat some moussaka, speak in his native tongue and he was transformed. The Boston version of him melted into the sand. His skin turned golden seemingly overnight, his gestures became expansive and full of meaning, he was more affectionate, laughed more, slowed his pace, was overall more easy. Ah, this is going to be very good. There are many more layers of this man to explore. He's home here, grounded, somehow more substantial. His memories flow. I love watching him with his brother and BF. The ties and bonds among the three are deep and strong. They are witty and funny, with lots of history, insider conversation and jokes. Surprisingly, I don't feel left out. The warmth between them flows over everything nearby. It spills onto me and I laugh and feel warm, too, even though I have no idea what is being said.
MG's brother told us that, in his well-researched view, the island we chose has some of the very best beaches in the Aegean. Further, "our beach" was the best of all. Now is this someone whose opinion can be trusted or not? I decided to investigate for myself.
Being fair-skinned of Irish heritage, I am sensitive to the sun and conscientious about not exposing myself to it whenever possible. In advance of hitting the beach on day 1, I applied my usual SPF 90 all over, hopped into my bikini and then donned a long-sleeved white SPF 50 shirt, a long loose skirt, flip flops, sunglasses and a large, floppy brimmed, SPF 50 hat. With magazines and water in hand, I sailed onto the beach.
OOPS! Others were picnicking, sunbathing, playing volleyball, strolling, looking for shells, snoozing, reading and whatever...all completely nude. Yes, as luck would have it "our beach" is a nude beach. Nothing like standing out as the oddball. I am choose to think of it as "clothing optional" and enjoy the day. The water is brilliant, perfect. MG and I wonder what the grandchildren will make of the nudity!
Between meetings, we four hopped in a rental car and toured the island, looking at homes built by our architect and others built by the cousin contractor, towards whom we were leaning. We were very happy with our choice of architect. The style of homes he has designed are traditional at first glance and conform to the strict local zoning laws. They look like what people expect to see on a Greek island...white stucco, blue wooden trim, stone walls and patios, amazing views. Upon closer inspection, however, we noticed the subtle yet radical differences in the rounded edges and smooth curves, unexpected openings, passages and overhangs. We will fit in and stand out at the same time.
We closely inspected homes built by the cousin contractor. They are solid in every way. He is a very enterprising man and an excellent businessperson. In addition to his contracting business, he owns and operates a seaside restaurant. He grows most of the vegetables and herbs used in the restaurant. Stacked up the hillside run a series of beautiful little guest houses, each with an open terrace, view, private entrance, bougainvillea shaded outside area and garden, all of which he has built and operates for paying guests during the summer months. All guests share the cats.
Over a late dinner served al fresco with the sound of the sea lapping in the background, they talk and I listen late into the night. After many glasses of wine of his vintage followed by kitro and cigars, suddenly grins and handshakes break out all around. I tune back in and realize that a deal has been struck. Panygiotis will be our contractor. He is a good man, a relative, an entrepreneur, a man of his word and also makes a damn good wine. He is the right choice. We all feel lucky.
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