We arrived in Naxos after an early morning fast ferry from Piraeus. We typically pay an additional 7 Euros to upgrade to first class and it was SO worth it in order to curl up to nap and read in a comfortable seat. Upon disembarking the ferry with many suitcases and duffel bags, we were greeted at the dock by an astonished brother, Costis. “What is IN all these cases?” We had trudged along on our journey, sweaty and sore of muscle from hauling the cases filled with house wares from Ikea that I finally managed to accumulate. Though we brought only a minimum of clothes and personal items, we were heavily burdened and glad for Costis’ help.
We caught up on each others' news as we joined the mad crush of drivers racing away from the port and through the town. The cars and taxis dispersed as we continued and finally we approached the beaches and villages. With great anticipation tinged with a touch of dread, we arrived at the houses. BF's is complete and we will stay here during our visit. Ours is to be completed in the coming 4 to 5 weeks and requires more decisions. I was anxious to see the installed tiles, windows, doors, outside pavers and other progress that had taken place since we were last here in May. We toured BF's house, admiring the details, the functionality, how beautiful it is, what a marvel he created, how well it all came together.
Finally I could resist no longer. Would we like our choices now that they were realized, would we be disappointed, and worse, would we find that we couldn't live with any of the outcomes? We walked across to our house and entered. I was aware of holding my breath.
Oh! The blessed relief we experienced upon seeing the floors and terraces! We instantly saw our choices were good; love at first sight. The guest bathrooms are thrilling. The copper-colored tiles and mosaics are simply spectacular. Our bathroom in aqua tiles and mosaics is bright and cool and lively. The turquoise doors for all the rooms inside are just the right splash of color in an otherwise all white palette. The outside signal blue doors and window frames are iconic against the white stucco. Oops! The paint color in the guest bath is simply nauseating. If I can choose another color quickly, the crew will repaint it. How does 5 seconds sound for fast!
As we depart for the paint and hardware store, Yannis, the electrician, playfully calls out to me, “Choose with care! The whole island is waiting to see what you will do next!” As we drive, Costis tells me that, indeed, locals have been coming by to view progress on the houses. Tongues have clucked at my choices of color, bath tiles, floor tiles, kitchen design. It is not traditional and I, a foreigner, am highly suspect. Well, I expected this as I was forewarned by MG. I've been a rule-bender my whole life so it doesn't bother me. What does bother me is that “they” may think I really wanted that ghastly color in the powder room. I, too, was shocked at the screaming chartreuse where I expected soft pear. In any case I choose neutral beige for the second go-round. I hope “they” will approve!
It is very helpful to stay in BF's house. My list of what we will need for functionality and comfort grows by the minute. Fly paper and fly swatters! Drawer lining! Dust pan and brush! Yoga mat! Door stoppers! What I did not expect is the force of the wind, the Mal Teme. It blows steadily during July and August. During the night it howled so strong it precipitated dreams of hurricanes, sailing in raging storms at sea, crossing the desert in a sandstorm. It howls so and anything outside not nailed down is blown across the countryside. It blows dust into the house through the screens and penetrates every crevice. Door and window management is an art during this season. However, if not for the wind, we would suffocate in the heat. As it is, the temperature is very comfortable and mosquitoes are kept at bay during the day. At sunset, the wind dies and the mosquitoes come out in force. We flee indoors.
Before then, however, it is time for Ouzo and pistachios on the terrace as we watch the spectacle of the sun going down in a blaze of orange and scarlet into the sea. Costis shows us his latest photographs in black and white. He has toured the island and taken remarkable images of the mountains, the sea and other geographic wonders. He is preparing for a one man show that will feature some of this latest work. He will contribute some of those we instantly love to the house. I am both elated at this gift and jealous of his talent. Perhaps we can also take one or two back to Boston to remind us of our home and life here when we are off island.
The water is hard and leaves deposits and rings everywhere it touches. Am I really going to be able to deal with a black granite counter top? My fear is that I will want to constantly buff it and eventually will engage in a war with it. MG mentioned that he thinks it is too dark. We call Panygiotis. Yes, the black granite has been ordered but not cut. We can go tomorrow and look at other options. He will be here at 10 am. Perhaps we don’t want those towel bars with warmers built-in. Their foot print is too large. Yes, the order can be canceled. We also need to select lighting fixtures for throughout the house, and air conditioners. The latter will be our solution to the dust...simply close everything up tight and turn on the energy efficient air conditioners during the period of the Mal Teme.
We return to BF’s kitchen to prepare our evening meal. Oh yes, we will need a tea kettle, sponges and rubber gloves, left-over containers, hot mitts.....
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